Work started on the Winery in September and already the foundations have been poured and the ground floor walls went up this week.
It took over 40 cement trucks to deliver the 350 tonnes of concrete that were poured over 60 tonnes of steel reinforcement rods to form the foundations of our Winery. It’s not going anywhere!I it didn’t stop there. The steel frame will arrive in two weeks time and hopefully they will start putting that up just before or soon after Christmas.
Jonathan Médard, our winemaker, and I have just returned from Bordeaux where we attended the Vinitech, a trade show for vineyard and winery equipement. We have finalised some of our choices for the grape processing area, including a red-grape sorting bench, de-stemmer and crusher. We also found a very good supplier of lab equipement, based in the UK but supplying the wine trade the world over.
Meanwhile the boys have been collecting flints from the vineyard to use when restoring the Flint Barns because, DRUM ROLL PLEASE!!! – After two years of consultation and endless revision, we have finally been given planning permission to redevelop our Flint Barns into a 44-bed hostel for both seasonal workers, as well as educational and other organised special interest groups. It was a long painful process but we finally got there! Thank you SDNPA.
Lastly, we have just published our Winter 2012 Newsletter so look out for the link on our Website and if you haven’t done so already, why not subscribe?
Wine writer Hugh Johnson once called vineyard soil “the unseen dankness where the vine roots suck.” It is an often forgotten part of our process. I recently attended a seminar on the subject of soil, which got me to thinking about the many different facets of soil and why it is so fascinating.
Ok, so not everyone finds soil interesting, but consider this:
To the farmer, soil is where crops grow.
To the engineer, soil is a foundation on which to build.
To the ecologist, soil supports and connects the ecosystems.
To the archaeologist, soil holds clues to past cultures.
to crafts people, like potters, soil provides clay to make things.
Soil is all of these and more. Soil has been called “the skin of the earth” because it is the thin outermost layer of the Earth’s crust.
Like our own skin, we can’t live without soil.
Soil is the basis for all life on earth, not only delivering 90% of the food produced it most importantly delivers ALL the wine.
And through the complexities of soil we get different characteristics in our wine.
Soil (or more specifically vineyard site) is part of the trilogy of what makes a great wine, the other two pieces of the puzzle being grape variety and human input.
In a vineyard site there will always be a troublesome patch that under performs or an area that consistently produces a higher quality than those around it.
Given that if the varieties and clones are the same, this will most likely be down to soil.
While we say that here at Rathfinny we have between 15 and 30cm of topsoil over a chalk base, the truth of the matter is there is variation through the fields. Not just physically but biologically, and chemically. We are trying to work around this variation by setting up our blocks with the help of surveying the soil prior to planting.
The guys from Soilquest have just been on-site to EC map our upcoming planting. What this does is build up an accurate field map of soil variation and nutrient status by measuring electrical conductivity to two depths; we then analyze representative soil samples from each soil type zone.
This enables us to pinpoint areas of similar soil type when we set out our blocks and in turn maintain a more even and easier to manage block.
A true farmer doesn’t just grow crops, but farms the soil.
I had a myriad of thoughts late at night during a recent trip home to Hong Kong for my niece’s wedding.
Long on my mind has been the issue of employment and sourcing – both of which we want to do from England. We want to build a seasonal workforce made up of local people, who gain skills and come back to us year on year for both picking in September and pruning in the New Year. We want to buy British wherever we can and, as I venture out to source products to sell in our tasting room (which we hope to open next summer,) and to stock in our winery and flint barns my continual refrain is “does it come from Britain?”
The issues are not straightforward. Take employment. We can have a team of pickers, many of them from Eastern Europe, who are honest and reliable. They arrive early, work hard and we only have to make one payment to their manager. Incidentally, it gets more subtle, many of them have lived here for years, so aren’t strictly migrant workers. Employing local workers raises practical issues – what do they do for the rest of the year? Or are local workers simply ‘teams’ who go from harvest to harvest around the country – and how then are they different from the other teams?
See, it’s not that easy. Everyone tells me, it can’t be done: that we won’t find local people who want to come and pick, who are reliable and hard working. Well, I’d like to prove them wrong. It is our intention to try, so if you’re reading this and fancy vineyard work when the time comes, drop us a line and we’ll contact you later on next year.
Sourcing. Again, this is not an easy issue. We are looking at glasses for tasting and for our winery and the flint barns as well as to sell. What I’m learning is that England makes great crystal, but not everyday, good quality glasses. For that we need to go to Eastern Europe or the States. Willow baskets – yes, we can get them made here, but the costs are very high, whereas if we went to China ….
Whilst in Hong Kong we visited Shenzhen over the border where the employment and sheer energy is overwhelming. This is a city that has grown from 10,000 people in 1978 to more than 14 million today. The number of people eager to do business is extraordinary. The number of fake English labels like Burberry, Mulberry and Cath Kidston reiterates the fact that I learnt at a British Council event – English brands have a great reputation all over the world and people want them.
With all these thoughts in mind, I’ve been reading ‘Time to Start Thinking: America in Descent’ by Ed Luce (which I highly recommend) that questions America’s role in the world. It got me thinking that in the same way that we seem to follow what happens over the pond, Britain too will be heading this way unless we change our outlook.
I don’t know the answer to our employment and sourcing issues but suspect we’ll have to compromise on our desire to ‘buy British’ in every way.
Tired and confused, worried about the state of the world, I suddenly questioned whether we should be making sparkling wine, a high end and relatively frivolous product at all. Horrified, I turned to Mark only to find my ramblings had long since bored him and he was fast asleep!
So I had to work it out myself. Yes – we should be making English Sparkling Wine because we are making something. In the tradition of this country, we aim to make a quality, unique British product that will not only sell here but abroad and in so doing, will create jobs and opportunities for people in this country.
At that I was, (and you probably are too!) exhausted!
PS. The photos above are some of Viv’s great photos of the winery development. The second half of the slab was poured today – 200 tons of concrete has been poured over the last 10 days!
Prof. Serge Renaud was a French scientist who pioneered research into the prevention of cardiovascular disease, among other health issues. He participated in broadening research into the role of wine, alcohol, fatty acids and other components in preserving health and preventing disease.
His medical career took him notably to Montréal, Canada, Boston, Massachusetts, and Lyon, France.
Professor Renaud died at the end of October of 2012, not too far away from Bordeaux, leaving behind so many contributions to science, that he was decorated in 2005 with the “Légion d’Honneur”, the highest French distinction.
Professor Renaud appeared on the TV program 60 Minutes, in 1991, explaining what people still refer to as the “French Paradox”. He challenged people to see the benefits of wine rather than its potential risks.
The United States of America, where 60 years before then alcohol consumption was illegal due to prohibition, saw red wine sales go up 40 per cent within days, like a revolution.
Over several decades Professor Renaud studied the effects of how food and diet relate to health and how some nutrients can promote health: Mediterranean diet, anyone?
He said one day: “If I hadn’t lived with my grandparents and great-grandparents on a vineyard near Bordeaux, perhaps this idea wouldn’t have occurred to me. When you see people reach the age of 80 or 90 years, who have been drinking small amounts of wine every day, you don’t believe wine in low doses is harmful.”
Nearly a century earlier, Louis Pasteur said “Wine is the most healthy and most hygienic of beverages”.
Even though some of the wine components’ effects, like Resveratrol, a natural phenol, are still being studied, it is now pretty widely accepted that a glass of wine can be good company to a balanced meal. Alcohol is not the devil it used to be anymore, as long as consumed in moderation.
Professor Renaud’s legacy is without doubt a whole new broader vision of the effects of diet on general health.
My take on this, and I do not expect it will get me the Légion d’Honneur, is that your meal will be even better when started with a glass of English sparkling wine.
I was reminded whilst waiting in vain to cross the road in Columbia, South Carolina, that contrary to Dunkin Donuts assertion that ‘America runs on Dunkin’, America runs on gasoline, the car is king and the pedestrian a second class citizen.
Everything is big in America, the cars, the houses, the portions and the fish were no exception. I had never been fly-fishing before and everyone warned me how difficult it was and how I should get some lessons before I went. It seems a little crazy to fly all the way to Helena, Montana to go fishing but that is what I did two weeks and I would thoroughly recommend it. I travelled out via New York to visit friends and back via Columbia, South Carolina to see my eldest son who is studying at USC for a year, you forget how big America is until you try to fly form the northwest to the southeast!
The fishing was fantastic. We fished the Missouri River for two days and then Wolf Creek for a day on a boat. The Missouri river, which starts in Montana and ends up joining the Mississippi, is split by several hydro dams in Montana and the area we fished was below Holter dam. On our first day we lost count of how many large 18-24″ rainbow trout we caught. As our fantastic guide and teacher Nate Stevan said, “each one would have been a ‘day-maker’ on any other river”.
What an introduction to fly-fishing. Of course I have been completely spoilt as day three demonstrated as we fished Wolf Creek. We caught several fish including a decent sized brown trout but nothing as large as the fish in the Missouri.
I have to say that overall I was disappointed with a lot of the wines we found in the US. I tried a lot of Oregon Pinot Noir, which is made in the Burgundian style, light colour and body, but they seemed to lack the depth of the French wines and the prices where astronomic. However, one little gem was the Wild Hogg 2008 Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley in Sonoma, this is a great example of Pinot from that cooler area of the Sonoma Valley, California.
If you fancy trying fly-fishing I recommend Nate Stevane as a guide, he runs a small outfitters called Trout on the fly Montana (www.montanatroutonthefly.com).
Back in England now to see how the building work is getting along. The foundations of the winery are going in and hopefully we can move into our new office in the next two weeks then we can get organised.
As the end of my first full season in a vineyard in England comes to a close I wonder what next year will bring for us?
News of some producers not harvesting due to the poor quality of their fruit and others not even having any fruit to make that decision, leaves the rest waiting for a break in the weather to harvest.
Difficult growing conditions have plagued the 2012 harvests across Europe, with reports of a significant drop in vineyard yield’s from Champagne to Bordeaux, even in Spain and Italy. This year’s UK harvest compounds a series of challenging weather events for farmers – including the worst drought in 50 years in the US and a heat wave in Russia which have led to warnings of rises in food prices globally. In the UK, the cool and wet weather over flowering in June and July both reduced and delayed the fruit set leading to smaller crops and delayed ripening in UK vineyards.
What the general public tend to forget is that a vineyard is just another form of farming (our tractor’s are just smaller). Like any weather dependent industries we are just as liable to good and bad years, which is part of the beauty of wine, it gives us the challenge of trying to make the best from what’s thrown at us, and looking forward to the years when it all goes as it should. It also means we have no two years the same. So here’s looking forward to next year!
The vineyard team has been working in all conditions this summer, with winter yet to come. They’ve done a great job of getting all the posts and wire in to support the vines – a mammoth task. They’ve just got a bit of general maintenance to do before we start to prepare next year’s planting, removal of fences and adding fertilizer adjustments. As well as our normal tasks we now have to work around our contractors for the next 12 months while they build the winery (although they are great and flying along at a terrific rate) and it doesn’t make it easy having to work around diggers, dumpers and trucks to-ing and fro-ing. Soon they’ll be into the pruning, which granted won’t be for a couple of months until the vines are fully hardened off and dormant but as with everything it will be upon us before we know it.